It was a pleasant Fall evening as we turned down a narrow, almost medieval outdoor corridor from the Passeig de Gràcia, close to the Playa de Cataluna in the center of Barcelona. At the far end of that corridor – our destination: The innovative El Nacional restaurant, the first of its kind in Barcelona.

After exploring the city all day and taking in the surrounding Modernist architecture, there was no question for us where to have dinner that night.

Built in 1889, the building originally housed a modernist café-theater in the Modernist district of El Eixample, and since then made it through a multitude of owners and occupants. It was most recently renovated by Lázaro Rosa Violán as El Nacional, a combination restaurant evocative of the 1930s. Standing witness to more than a century of history and progress, this place was the perfect conclusion to our self-guided Modernisme tour.

Being the first Spanish city to embrace the Industrial Revolution, Barcelona’s new found wealth ushered in a new Renaixença (or Renaissance) in the 19th century, funding the arts and sciences and bringing a new wave of cultural prosperity to the city and to Catalonia as a whole. The Universal Exhibition of 1888 was held there and new districts such as the aforementioned El Eixample (the Extension) were built to accommodate the rapid influx of people.

The Catalan Modernisme movement was galvanized by this and inspired countless artists and architects such as Antoni Gaudi, Domenech i Montaner, Puig i Cadafalch to redesign the city in their own, absolutely unique style. Barcelona has so many examples of this movement, that there will be many articles specifically dedicated to exploring this topic. 

But first – lets eat!

The enormous, yet cozy interior of El National is divided into several sections, each with its own atmosphere and culinary experience. Now comes the hard part: choosing the section where you would like to dine tonight. What makes this place special is the wide variety of local culinary treasures all under one roof, offering a variety of different restaurants and specialized bars, as well as an ice cream stand which has an eclectic mix of bizarre flavors such as olive oil and dill pickle.

Our rule is – always go with your gut. If you feel like seafood, then head toward La LLotja, where diverse selection of marine life, elegantly spread over ice, awaits you.

There is even a separate oyster bar to indulge in!

Not in the mood for fish? Then check out La Braseria, where succulent meats are cooked slowly to perfection over a charcoal grill while gifted artists slice the famously irresistible Jamon Iberico – a must have as far as we’re concerned.

And don’t forget the classic Taperia, where hot tapas are carried around by friendly waiters – a style reminiscent of Chinese Dim-Sim restaurants, particularly those on Mott street in lower Manhattan. When you see something you like on the cart or tray, just point and enjoy!

Like we said, deciding where to eat first is a real dilemma.

And if you are in the company of friends or loved ones with totally different opinions on where to go, don’t panic! Just take a seat and think it over a refreshing drink, such as a glass of Cava, a local sparkling wine, or select from the the seemingly endless variety of both local and international wines, beers and cocktails in one of the restaurant’s four specialty bars, each offering their own snacks, paired ideally to your drink of choice.

No matter what section you choose, you are sure to leave satisfied, although several pounds heavier. So grab one of the unusual yet surprisingly delicious ice cream selections on your way out and enjoy a stroll through a city where the architecture is as diverse as the cuisine and lose yourself in the enchanting atmosphere of Barcelona, as we did.

No need to toss a penny in the fountain on our way out, we’ll definitely be back at the El Nacional again and we entreat you to join us.