BlogIt was our first time in Toledo. We knew that Old Toledo was one of those truly well-preserved medieval cities, where you feel surrounded by centuries of European history, the heritage of prior civilizations and the influence of people who lived there long ago. The Alcazar, the panorama of the city immortalized by El Greco, the Fortress walls, Cervantes, the famous Cathedral, Don Quixote, the Zocodover – just a few of Toledo’s famous landmarks, works of art and monuments can take a lifetime to describe.
Whatever we thought we knew about Toledo when planning the trip was definitely not Avant-garde. That was an oversight on our part. We did not associate Toledo with modern life and modern art, both of which had woven themselves into the fabric of the city’s medieval streets, sites, and buildings. Toledo is, undeniably, very rich with historic heritage, but at the same time full of modern art and modern design.
From the countless examples available, we will highlight only a few in this article.
Our first example is the Toledo Town Hall Square. Nestled between the 14th century Toledo Cathedral, the Archbishops palace, and the 17th century Ayuntamiento de Toledo (which stands over an even older Moorish structure), there is now the ultra-modern water installation by Cristina Iglesias.
Water slowly comes and goes in the shallow pool-like basin. Low tides show the knots of roots at the foundation, solid and frozen in time, while the high tide displays the ever changing reflection of the sky and the medieval monuments surrounding the Square.
The tides are cycled slowly, giving you enough time to enjoy the allegory. The installation is known as Tres Aguas and there are two more in Toledo. One – located in the University campus, in the Old Water Tower that was restored specifically for the installation and the other – located in a dedicated area of the 14th century Convent of Saint Clara. The installation in the Convent is surrounded by walls, which create an internal, intimate space, allowing for a more personal experience in contrast to the external, open reflections in the Town Hall Square. Since its installation in 2014, the Tres Aguas became an integral part of Toledo’s landscape, an island of the future floating in an ocean of the past.
Our second example is the restaurant called the Taberna Alfileritos 24. When you stand outside the Taberna, (which is very easy to find because it’s conveniently located on Calle Alfileritos 24), nothing can give you a hint of what to expect to see inside that medieval building which stands on a classically medieval street. But after walking up a couple steps you enter a place that was designed to mix the past with the future, a place where modern interior meets antiquity. All of the building materials are resourcefully incorporated into the original wood and stone structure, with elements dating back to the 14th century patio, now covered up.
The colors of lights and modern artworks are used in a way to contradict the rather dull color of the old stone walls and create a festive atmosphere. Look at the photos – worth a thousand words.
The food in this place follows the same pattern as does the interior design – a modern twist on a traditionally flavored meal. We had a great time here, just taking in the juxtaposition of flavors and designs.
The last location in our story is the Plaza San Vicente. We found the photo of the Plaza, taken about 100 years ago. It hasn’t changed much. This Plaza does not have any avant-garde installations or use any modern decorative materials – nothing that would make it stand out at first glance, if not for the two medieval churches on the opposite sides of the Square.
One of them is the Church of San Vicente, separated from the back wall of the University de Castilla La Mancha only by the very narrow Calle Cardenal Lorenzana. This Church can serve as an entire Encyclopedia of prior civilizations, although some pages are only available to historians and archaeologists. Founded in the 11th century by King Alfonso VI, the church was built over the ruins of Roman, Visigothic and Moorish structures. On both the outside and the inside walls of the building there are stones, pieces, decorative elements and motifs from its culturally diverse past. The building has often changed hands between various owners and thus deteriorated quickly.
Now this place is restored and occupied by the Toledo Circle of Arts, which uses the ancient building for a very contemporary purpose – art workshops and exhibitions, concerts and theater, a bar, a dance club, a quiet and inviting space during its off hours, and much more… A modern way of life taking place within its ancient walls. As it is located next to the University, this place is never empty. We are glad to quote from the Description written by the Toledo Circle of Arts:
“Our project is absolutely free and independent of any ideological or economic power, so we have no more limitations than in the laws that regulate freedom of expression in Spain.”
On the same Plaza San Vicente, directly opposite the main entrance of the Circle of Arts, there is a doorway to the 17th century Church of the Convento de las Gaitanas. A stone plug next to that doorway proclaimed: “Assorted traditional sweets of Toledo”. This is what the nuns of that Convent are known for to the public – homemade marzipan and cookies. We bought some – pretty tasty.
What is not so commonly known about the nuns in that Convent is that they can never leave the walls of the Convent. We visited the Church after the evening mass had finished. We saw the Priest speaking to the nuns from behind thick iron, dungeon like cross-bars.
That are countless places in Toledo like the ones described in this story – a story about the eclectic mix of modernity and the medieval sites on which they stand and were influenced by. The Old Church of San Vicente and the Circle of Arts and the Convent Church across it – the entire Plaza San Vicente – are very visible symbols showcasing the marriage of the old and new. This eclectic mix is what makes Toledo such a captivating city to visit.
Please accept our apology, Toledo!
